Drew Dawson was at rock bottom three years ago.
The East London-raised chef, who had experience in fine diners in the UK, Italy and France before coming Down Under to travel, had crushed his right hand — his knife hand — in a near-fatal car rollover in the Kimberley.
He was skint, working in a Fremantle hostel in exchange for a bed, when he saw a story online about Peggy’s, a busy sandwich bar in the port city’s west end.
Dawson approached co-owner Harry Peasnell, who happened to need a chef. While his catastrophic injuries meant the intensity of Michelin-star cheffing was beyond him, creating sangas and toasties was possible.
Peggy’s went gangbusters, leading to Peasnell and partners opening Lola’s, a pizzeria a few doors down on Market Street.
Now back on his feet, the 28-year-old cockney chef, who spent three years in the British army before joining the hospitality industry, agreed to run Lola’s but only if it was a short-term proposition.
Dawson has plans for his own eatery.
A year ago, he began Off Licence, hosting regular pop-up dinners in Fremantle venues Patio Bar and Beaconsfield Wine Bar designed as a “testing ground” to experiment and sharpen his skills.
The first Off Licence event saw Dawson prepare a multi-course Italian feast. He slugged diners less than $50 for a snack, main course and dessert (his popular tiramisu).
“I don’t suffer the cost of rent because I just turn up at these places, so I can afford to base my pricing on just my food costs,” he explains.
“I don’t pay myself. For me, I charge it at a low point because I want people to come, try new food and explore what we have to offer.”
He adds, “By the time I get to open a venue, I want a following, I want people backing me, I want people almost clawing at the door before we open.”
So far, so good, with an enthusiastic response to the pop-up dinners.
“Off Licence started out as something I was going to use to just practise my skills and then . . . it became something bigger,” Dawson laughs.
“The first one (at Patio), I made 30 portions of pasta and by the end of that series, we did about 130 portions. It just grew and grew and grew.”
While Off Licence rolls onwards and upwards, and he pays bills working at Freo wine bar Nieuw Ruin, Dawson is in discussions with Beaconsfield Wine Bar co-owner Matt Sharples for a project combining their love of food and wine slated to open in Fremantle next year.
“Freo is where my heart is,” says Dawson. “When I was really in trouble, it was Freo that supported me and got me back on track.”
I want people clawing at the door before we open.
The working-class lad adds that, after coming close to losing his hand and his career as a chef, he doesn’t want to waste a moment.
“I came back up with a big fire in my belly,” Dawson states. “Every day I step into a kitchen, I know it sounds corny, but I feel very blessed to be able to do what I love. I’m very fortunate.”
Check @off_licence and @chefdrewdawson for Off Licence events.
