Drew Dawson was at rock bottom three years ago.
The East London-raised chef, who had experience in fine diners in the UK, Italy and France before coming Down Under to travel, had crushed his right hand — his knife hand — in a near-fatal car rollover in the Kimberley.
He was skint, working in a Fremantle hostel in exchange for a bed, when he saw a story online about Peggy’s, a busy sandwich bar in the port city’s west end.
Dawson approached co-owner Harry Peasnell, who happened to need a chef. While his catastrophic injuries meant the intensity of Michelin-star cheffing was beyond him, creating sangas and toasties was possible.
Peggy’s went gangbusters, leading to Peasnell and partners opening Lola’s, a pizzeria a few doors down on Market Street.
![Drew Dawson takes his pop-up Italian restaurant Off Licence to venues around Fremantle including Patio Bar and Beaconsfield Wine Bar.](https://images.thewest.com.au/publication/C-15142136/6c57441011c560c49101aa66397fd8857fb2236b-4x3-x0y1449w3456h2592.jpg?imwidth=810&impolicy=wan_v3)
Now back on his feet, the 28-year-old cockney chef, who spent three years in the British army before joining the hospitality industry, agreed to run Lola’s but only if it was a short-term proposition.
Dawson has plans for his own eatery.
A year ago, he began Off Licence, hosting regular pop-up dinners in Fremantle venues Patio Bar and Beaconsfield Wine Bar designed as a “testing ground” to experiment and sharpen his skills.
The first Off Licence event saw Dawson prepare a multi-course Italian feast. He slugged diners less than $50 for a snack, main course and dessert (his popular tiramisu).
“I don’t suffer the cost of rent because I just turn up at these places, so I can afford to base my pricing on just my food costs,” he explains.
“I don’t pay myself. For me, I charge it at a low point because I want people to come, try new food and explore what we have to offer.”
![Drew Dawson takes his pop-up Italian restaurant Off Licence to venues around Fremantle.](https://images.thewest.com.au/publication/C-15142136/977fb911d43a3a5914970821db406e28036c3571-16x9-x0y453w4579h2576.jpg?imwidth=810&impolicy=wan_v3)
He adds, “By the time I get to open a venue, I want a following, I want people backing me, I want people almost clawing at the door before we open.”
So far, so good, with an enthusiastic response to the pop-up dinners.
“Off Licence started out as something I was going to use to just practise my skills and then . . . it became something bigger,” Dawson laughs.
“The first one (at Patio), I made 30 portions of pasta and by the end of that series, we did about 130 portions. It just grew and grew and grew.”
![Drew Dawson has recovered from a near-fatal car crash to launch his pop-up dining series, Off Licence.](https://images.thewest.com.au/publication/C-15142136/5606d622ccbbd6fc6ab0cf7f3d96932e5096d24a-16x9-x0y2171w3456h1944.jpg?imwidth=810&impolicy=wan_v3)
While Off Licence rolls onwards and upwards, and he pays bills working at Freo wine bar Nieuw Ruin, Dawson is in discussions with Beaconsfield Wine Bar co-owner Matt Sharples for a project combining their love of food and wine slated to open in Fremantle next year.
“Freo is where my heart is,” says Dawson. “When I was really in trouble, it was Freo that supported me and got me back on track.”
I want people clawing at the door before we open.
The working-class lad adds that, after coming close to losing his hand and his career as a chef, he doesn’t want to waste a moment.
“I came back up with a big fire in my belly,” Dawson states. “Every day I step into a kitchen, I know it sounds corny, but I feel very blessed to be able to do what I love. I’m very fortunate.”
Check @off_licence and @chefdrewdawson for Off Licence events.